Delicate, and labour-intensive, Ισλί is more than just a cookie – it’s a small act of craftsmanship rooted in the kitchens of Asia Minor. Each piece is shaped by hand, filled with walnuts, embroidered with fine surface patterns, then baked and soaked in syrup. Carried across the Aegean by refugees after the population exchange agreed between Greece and Turkey in 1922, Isli remains a symbol of memory, continuity, and culinary artistry – a dessert that speaks of past homes, shared feasts, and patient hands.
In many households in the Smyrna (modern day İzmir) and Cappadocia regions, the appearance of Isli on the table meant the Christmas, New Year or Epiphany celebrations had begun. The name itself – derived from the Turkish word ış (“work”, “labour”) – points to the labour and care required: shaping, filling, sealing, painstaking “embroidery,” syruping. Isli (or Ιτσλί [ichli] in some dialects) is a Greek Asia Minor heritage dessert, born along the shores and highlands of Asia Minor.
Prep Time: ~1 hour 30 minutes (plus time to rest)
Bake Time: 25 minutes
Syrup Time: ~10 min
Total Time: ~2 hours
Yield: ~70–75 cookies (small to medium size)
You will need
For the dough
- 500 g cow’s butter, softened (room temperature)
- 800 g granulated white sugar
- 500 ml whole milk
- ½ tablespoon baking soda (or alternative leavening)
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1.5 kg all-purpose flour, sifted (adjust as needed)
For the filling
- 250 g walnuts, crushed / chopped (not powdered — texture matters)
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
For the syrup
- 500 ml water
- 600 g sugar
- 400 g honey
Instructions
Prepare syrup first: Combine water, and sugar in a pot. Bring to a boil; once boiling, time 5 minutes, add the honey, stir lightly, then remove from heat and let cool slightly. The syrup should be warm (not hot) when cookies are dipped.
Make the dough: In a large bowl (or mixer), cream together softened butter and sugar until fluffy. Then add milk and gradually stir in the baking soda (careful — it will foam), then add baking powder and begin folding in the flour in portions until you get a soft, pliable dough that does not stick to your hands.
Prepare filling: In a small bowl, combine the crushed walnuts with cinnamon. Keep texture coarse — don’t grind to powder.
Shape the cookies: Divide dough into small pieces (about walnut-size). Flatten each piece gently into a small disc on your palm. Place about ½ teaspoon of walnut filling at centre, then close the dough around it, shaping into a small triangle.
“Embroider” the tops: Using a small needle, fork tine, or tiny three-pronged “τσίμπιδα” (traditional tweezer), pierce or etch delicate patterns or diagonal lines on the surface. This decorative step signals authenticity: only “embroidered” cookies were considered true isli.
Bake: Place cookies on a buttered or parchment-lined tray, spaced slightly apart. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for about 25 minutes, until lightly golden and cooked through.
Syrup bath: Remove from oven, and while still hot, dip each cookie in the warm syrup for a few seconds, then place on a rack or tray to drain and cool. The cracked/embroidered surface helps the syrup seep in deeply.
Suggestions
- For a lighter nuttier aroma, add a small pinch of clove or (if you like your spices) nutmeg to the filling.
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